@birdwithdennis

Four things that help the birds in your yard

  1. Plant for the caterpillars

    No yard? Don't worry about this one.

    One pair of chickadees needs somewhere between 6,000 and 9,000 caterpillars to raise a single nest of babies.

    Almost every songbird you see feeds its chicks on insects, mostly caterpillars. Seeds are the winter food. Babies get bugs.

    And caterpillars are picky eaters. Most kinds can only eat a few kinds of plant, and those are the plants that were already here.

    So a yard of imported ornamentals looks green to us and reads as empty to a bird.

    Researchers put nest boxes in 159 yards around Washington DC and watched what the chickadees did. The birds mostly wouldn't settle in the non-native yards at all. The few pairs that did try raised fewer young. Past about a third non-native, a yard slowly loses its chickadees.

    The yards that worked were the ones where most of the plants were native.

    Caterpillars are the sharpest version of this, because that's what the babies eat. But it isn't the only way a plant earns its keep, and I don't want to leave you thinking a berry bush is a runner-up.

    Grown birds eat fruit and seed, and the gap there is just as wide. One study weighed the fat in autumn berries.

    7% to 49% fat native fruits

    Under 1% every invasive fruit they tested

    That fat is what a bird burns crossing a few hundred miles in October, and what a resident lives on in January. A shrub full of sugary invasive berries is a plate of candy at a marathon.

    And then there's just structure. Somewhere thick to nest in, somewhere to duck when a hawk goes over. A lawn offers neither.

    This week

    Put one native plant in the ground. Different natives do different jobs, so there's no single right answer here.

    For caterpillars. Oak is the heavyweight. Cherry, elm and maple came out near the top too. Don't want a tall tree? American plum stays around 15 to 25 feet and still carries caterpillars.

    For fruit. Serviceberry, native viburnums, American elderberry, dogwood, spicebush. These feed grown birds, fuel migrants in the fall, and carry the residents through winter.

    For cover. Any dense native shrub. Birds need somewhere to nest and somewhere to hide, and most yards are short on both.

    The free version: stop mowing one corner and see what grows.

    Audubon's native plant finder, by zip code
    Recommended species by state, Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center

    Keeping track of what you've planted is its own small problem. More on that at the bottom.

    Behind the numbers

    The DC study is Narango, Tallamy & Marra 2018, Nonnative plants reduce population growth of an insectivorous bird, in PNAS. Nest boxes in the yards of 159 NestWatch volunteers, monitored 2013 to 2016.

    Worth being precise about the mechanism, because it's easy to get backwards. The strongest effect they measured was on settlement: chickadees were markedly less likely to move into a non-native yard in the first place. A second, weaker effect was on the pairs that did settle, who had lower nest success and fledged fewer young. So non-native yards are not luring birds in and killing them. They are mostly being avoided, and they underperform for the few that try.

    The thresholds: mean population growth was only positive below about 6% non-native plants. Up to 30% non-native, the confidence intervals still overlapped replacement, so those yards may hold their own. Above 30% non-native, the paper calls them population sinks. That's the same line as the abstract's "more than 70% native plant biomass," from the other direction. 70% native is a higher bar than most people expect.

    Honest limits: one region, one species, one study. Carolina Chickadees were picked partly because they're generalists that forage almost anywhere, which makes the result more striking, but it's still one bird.

    The 6,000 to 9,000 caterpillar figure is a season-long count for a brood of about five chicks, and it's the ceiling of a range, not a daily rate. It predates the DC study, and the sources quoting it attribute it to "previous studies" without naming one, so treat it as a well-established rule of thumb rather than a single measurement.

    Oaks, cherries, elms and maples are named because they came out on top for caterpillar and sawfly larvae counts in this line of work. American plum (Prunus americana) is in the same genus as cherry and is listed as a larval host for coral hairstreak, eastern tiger swallowtail, spring azure, viceroy and red-spotted purple.

    One thing to know about American plum before you plant it: NC State's plant database says it "suckers freely and can form large colonies or thickets," and that it will do this with thorn-like side branches unless you stay on top of it. Cut the runners each year and it behaves like a small tree. Ignore it and you have a hedge. If you'd rather not manage that, serviceberry is the better-behaved pick.

    The fruit study is Smith, DeSando & Pagano 2013, The value of native and invasive fruit-bearing shrubs for migrating songbirds, in Northeastern Naturalist. Their numbers: native fruits "ranging from 6.57 to 48.72% fat," while "all invasive fruits had ≤0.99% fat." They also found native dogwood fruits were eaten by migrating songbirds at higher rates than the invasive ones. The Center for Conservation Biology has measured sassafras above 60% fat, which is the highest I've seen for a fruit in this region.

    Two different jobs, two different rankings, and it's worth not mixing them up. On caterpillars, serviceberry is usually put around 120 species of butterflies and moths and elderberry somewhere in the 30s; NC State doesn't list elderberry as a larval host at all. On fruit, elderberry is excellent, and NC State says plainly that "its fruits are eaten by mammals and many species of songbirds." A plant that's mid-table for one job can be top of the list for another. Plant the elderberry.

    On nesting cover I'm being deliberately vague, because I haven't found a clean number for it the way there is for caterpillars and fruit. Audubon's line is that more native plants mean "more choices of food and shelter for native birds," which is true and unquantified, and I'd rather say it that way than dress it up.

  2. Skip the yard spray

    This applies to you if you have a lawn care service, or someone sprays insecticides.

    Researchers measured what a mosquito company actually leaves behind in a yard. On average, it was six times more than the concentration it takes to kill a honey bee.

    Then they checked the yards next door, the ones nobody sprayed. The chemical was there too. It drifts. Nine of the forty neighbor samples came back high enough to be a real problem for insects living there.

    These sprays are not selective. They can't tell a mosquito from a bee, a firefly, or a caterpillar. Which brings it back around: caterpillars are what the birds are feeding their babies. You can plant every native tree on the list and then sterilize it in an afternoon.

    It's a Band-Aid. Mosquitoes reproduce on a cycle of about eight to ten days, so as long as you have standing water in there, the yard will be filled with mosquitoes again within weeks after a spray. That's why the service comes back. It's not a fix, it's a subscription.

    This week

    Best, cancel the contract.

    Or move the sprays to October. Nesting is over. The summer insects have had their season. It's the least damaging month of spray season. Late October is better than early: migration runs through the middle of the month and the last monarchs are gone by around the 20th.

    Or, if it has to happen closer to spring, get it done by the end of February. Carolina chickadees are already nesting in March.

    Then do the thing that actually works. Fix the problem at the source. Walk the yard after it rains and look at everything that's holding water. Last time I did this, I found mosquito larvae swimming in a planter that was on its side. You'd be surprised where they're actually breeding: pots, saucers, buckets, a sagging tarp, a clogged gutter, the dog bowl. Mosquitoes need about an inch of standing water. Take away the water and you take away the next generation. Just tip them out and move them where they can't be filled again.

    Xerces Society, mosquito management at home

    Behind the numbers

    The study is Anderson, Code, Malfi, Holladay & Forister 2025, An assessment of risk to pollinators from mosquito control in residential settings, published in Stacks Journal by the Xerces Society and the University of Nevada, Reno.

    The method: silicone bands that absorb pesticide were placed at 19 volunteer properties across Georgia, Iowa and Massachusetts, before real spray events and collected 24 to 48 hours after. "Six times the lethal dose" is the average honey-bee risk quotient of 6.6 in yards sprayed by a private company. The neighboring-yard average was much lower, 0.12, and the number I quote in the body is the tail of that: nine of 40 samples, at five of 14 sites, reached medium or high risk.

    One number you may see elsewhere: a press release about this study says 75% of neighboring-yard samples showed contamination. That's a detection rate, not a harm rate, and it is not the same as the 23% that reached medium or high risk. I've used the harm figure. Detectable is not the same as dangerous, and it matters that we don't blur them.

    The authors' own limits: single spray events rather than a full season of them, a small number of sites, and a method that measures contact exposure, which if anything understates the real risk rather than exaggerating it.

    One more thing. "Natural" and "botanical" barrier sprays are usually pyrethrins, which are the chemical parent of the synthetic pyrethroids in the conventional stuff. Same broad-spectrum effect on whatever lands on the leaf. It isn't a different thing, it's a different word.

    Worth being fair about: barrier spraying does give real, temporary relief in the yard it's applied to. The argument here isn't that it does nothing. It's what it costs, and that the cheap permanent fix is the standing water.

    On timing. The eight-to-ten-day cycle figure is Xerces'. The February cutoff comes from the same DC chickadee study linked above, which monitored nests March through June, and Cornell's NestWatch shows the same March start for most of the range. Chickadees also start building roughly three weeks before the first egg is laid, which is what puts early March inside the season rather than safely before it. October is the least damaging month, not a harmless one: fall migration runs through mid-October and migrating birds refuel on insects, monarchs are still moving through the mid-Atlantic into about the third week, and the overwintering stages of a lot of insects settle into leaf litter and bark in October and November. "Late October, once the leaves are down" is the most accurate version of this advice.

    I want to be straight that this timing argument is reasoning from nesting calendars and how long the residue lasts. It is not a study measuring an October spray against winter bird food. As far as I can tell, nobody has run that study.

  3. Mark your windows

    This applies to you if you have floor-to-ceiling windows, or if you've ever seen a bird hit one of your windows.

    Somewhere between 365 and 988 million birds a year die hitting buildings in the US. The middle estimate is 599 million.

    Almost none of that is skyscrapers. They're under 1% of it. 44% happens at houses one to three stories tall. Ordinary windows on ordinary streets, which means a real share of that number is happening at somebody's home this week.

    The reason is simple and a little sad. Birds don't perceive glass at all. They see the trees and the sky reflected in it, and they fly toward that.

    Just one thing has to be true: the glass needs a pattern on the outside, with gaps small enough that a bird doesn't read them as a way through. What you make the pattern out of barely matters. Where it goes does.

    Inside the glass is the version everyone tries first, and it's the one that doesn't work. When the outdoor reflection is bright, anything behind the glass disappears.

    This week

    Pick the two or three tallest windows, or the ones throwing back the most sky and greenery. Then take your pick:

    Draw on them. A few dollars of tempera paint or a washable window marker, straight onto the outside of the glass. Lines, dots, a grid, whatever you like looking at. This is the cheapest option and American Bird Conservancy lists it as a real one.

    Decals. At least a quarter inch across, spaced two to four inches apart, on the outside.

    Cords. Dark paracord hung down the outside, three and a half to four inches apart. BirdSavers publishes free instructions for making your own, and sells them ready-made if you'd rather not. I'm not affiliated with them.

    Spacing rule of thumb: two inches between marks is the gold standard, two to four is fine for most birds, and tighter is always safer.

    BirdSavers, make your own (free instructions)
    American Bird Conservancy, solutions for homes

    Behind the numbers

    The estimate is Loss, Will, Loss & Marra 2014, Bird–building collisions in the United States, in The Condor, built from 23 studies. Their exact wording: 365 to 988 million birds, median 599 million, "roughly 56% of mortality at low-rises, 44% at residences, and <1% at high-rises." The remaining 56% is low-rise commercial buildings, four to eleven stories, which is where office parks and strip malls live.

    The authors flag their own bias, and I'll pass it along: most collision data was collected during migration and in the eastern US, so the list of most-affected species leans that way.

    On spacing, the numbers in circulation don't all match, so here they are side by side. American Bird Conservancy's headline is the "two-inch-by-two-inch rule," and it warns that small birds and hummingbirds "can easily fly through four-inch-wide gaps." But ABC's own decal guidance on the same page allows "two to four inches apart," and BirdSavers specifies 3.5 to 4.25 inches for hanging cords. ABC also lists BirdSavers by name as a recommended product, so nobody here is calling anybody wrong.

    My read, and I'll flag it as a read rather than a citation: two inches is the conservative target, two to four covers most birds, and a vertical cord is a different visual cue to a bird in flight than a flat sticker. If you get hummingbirds, go tighter. I couldn't find a source that explains exactly why cords hold up at four inches when the general rule is two, so I'd rather point at the gap than paper over it.

  4. Keep cats indoors

    This applies to you if you have a cat and you let it outside.

    Pet cats that go outdoors are estimated to kill around 684 million birds a year in the US. The high end of that estimate is 1.7 billion.

    That's pets specifically. Not strays, not colonies, not barn cats. Housecats with names, going out the back door.

    A full bowl doesn't switch it off. A 2021 review of the research puts it carefully: most cats keep hunting "even if hunting is not required for nutrition." In one of the older experiments, cats that were actively eating left their food to go kill a rat, then came back and finished the meal. Feeding your cat more doesn't buy the birds anything.

    The other half of this one is that outside is dangerous for the cat. American Bird Conservancy puts it plainly: outdoor cats have significantly shorter lifespans than indoor cats, between cars, predators, antifreeze, and a higher rate of injury and disease. This is the rare ask where the bird and the animal you love want the same thing.

    Of everything on this page, this is the one with the simplest solution. It's closing a door.

    This week

    Keep the cat in. That's the whole thing.

    If they need outside time, use a leash or a harness. Safer for the cat too, which is usually the argument that lands in a household.

    Or build a catio. Screened porch, window box, whole enclosure, it scales to whatever you've got. ABC keeps a page of setups.

    And if you feed a stray, it's hunting too. Same math.

    American Bird Conservancy, keep cats indoors

    Behind the numbers

    The source is Loss, Will & Marra 2013, in Nature Communications. The number people usually quote from it is 2.4 billion birds a year, and I've deliberately not led with that, because roughly 69% of it is un-owned cats: strays, feral colonies, barn cats. That's a policy problem, not something a cat owner can act on, and using it to talk to a cat owner isn't fair.

    The owned-cat figure is the paper's own separate estimate: a median of 684 million birds a year, with a range of 221 million to 1.68 billion. That's the "up to 1.7 billion" in the body. It is still, by a wide margin, the largest number on this page that a single household can change on its own.

    Why the range is so wide: the authors ran a sensitivity analysis and the biggest single source of uncertainty is that nobody knows how many un-owned cats there are in the country. That one unknown accounts for about 42% of the variation in the total. The paper also produces three different estimates depending on which countries' data are included; I'm using the US-and-Europe version, which is the one the authors chose to focus on because it's the lowest of the three.

    The fair criticism, and it's a real one: a mortality total is not the same as a population-level impact. Knowing that X hundred million birds die doesn't automatically tell you which populations are declining because of it. That objection is worth knowing about before you repeat the number at a dinner party.

    Also from the paper, and often left out: the majority of birds cats catch are native species, not house sparrows and starlings. Only about a third of identified prey were non-native.

    On hunting and hunger: the 2021 review is Cecchetti, Crowley & McDonald in Mammal Review, and the exact line is "Most cats retain some propensity to express hunting behaviours, even if hunting is not required for nutrition." The cats-leaving-their-food experiment is Adamec 1976, in Behavioral Biology. Note the review hedges, and so should we: it says most cats, not all, and "propensity," not compulsion. The same review also reports that better nutrition and more play can reduce how much a cat hunts, which is worth knowing, but reducing is not the same as stopping, and it isn't a substitute for the door.

I'm building an app for this

It's called Waystation. It scores your yard on what it offers wildlife, from sparse to thriving, suggests species for your zip code, and tells you which animals to expect once things are in the ground.

Nothing above depends on it. The four things work whether or not you ever hear from me again.

waystation.garden

There's a beta waitlist there if you want it. It comes with a free digital sign.